Japan Part IV - Kyoto

We took the Shinkansen or bullet train to Kyoto. If you are planning a trip to Japan this is a must do activity. First, the system runs like clockwork and so you can be assured you will leave and arrive on time. Second, it is amazing to run at 200/mph and not feel as if you are on a train.  Plus the view of Mt Fuji was nice too.

Kyoto is a cultural center in Japan. Largely spared from the bombing of World War II, there are more than 2000 temples and shrines. This along with castles, gardens and museums means more sights to see than we could ever hope in one trip. We decided to try for an overview of both Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples with a focus on zen architecture.

To help us find our way in Kyoto we hired a guide for the day. Mr. Takakazu Machi is a professional guide that speaks fluent English and has many years experience in the Kyoto area. He picked us up at our guest house and drove us around the entire day. Taka was one of the best guides we have ever had the pleasure of meeting. His knowledge and professionalism made our day one of a kind. He even accompanied us to a local restaurant for lunch and ensured that the staff knew that we needed to eat a gluten free meal. We would highly recommend him to anyone visiting the area. 

Mr. Takakazu Machi

We started with a beautiful Buddhist temple that was near our guest house. Komyo-in Temple was founded in 1391 in the Muromachi period.  In 1939 Shigemori Mirei laid out the dry landscape garden in front of the main building. Since it was early morning, we were alone in the temple. Taka took us from room to room and when we were settled on the tatami mats he would pull back the shoji screens to reveal the framed views of the garden. We learned to look for the triad of stones (trio) laid out in perfect sight lines as a representation of the Buddha and two attendants or disciples (bodhisattva).  The other stone elements represent mountains and the sea and colorful mosses are used to represent the land.    

Very small gate on a very quite street

Shoji screens frame the view of the garden

The perfect view point with the triad of stones

The next zen garden we saw was with water.  The Shoren-in temple garden is known as one of the five Monzeki temples of Tendal in Kyoto, whose head priests were originally from the imperial family.  Sohren-in belongs to Enryaku Temple in Mt. Hiei, the main temple of the Tendai Buddhist sect.

The addition of water really adds to the landscape

Walking path through the garden

Looking back at the temple

The Renge-ji temple is located in the Kami-Takano area where the upper stream of the Takano River runs through the temple grounds.  The temple has the Kitayama mountains behind it and commands to the east a distant view of Mt. Hiei. It was founded in 1662 in the early Edo era. We had the opportunity to experience tea service while we contemplated the garden.

The pond was home to carp and many dragonflys

In the fall, the colors of the Japanese maples must be incredible

A Zen moment for James

The Imakumono Shrine is not a large or famous Shinto shrine in Kyoto, but it does have a remarkable history. It is linked to the earliest form of Noh (classic Japanese musical drama) called Sarugaku. In 1374, the sarugaku troupe Yuzaki preformed here before the young shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. The success of this one performance and the resulting shogunal patronage lifted the art form permanently. What brought us to this shrine was the 900 year old camphor tree that is on it's grounds. It was transplanted from Kumano by retired emperor Go-Shirakawa. The tree is worshipped as the god of health and long life.

Enter through the Toreii gate to visit the tree (or god)

The straw ring guards it from wind and lightning

Shinbasi street is a traditional Kyoto street in and around the Gion district.  Many of the houses there have been preserved to look as they did in ancient Kyoto. This district since the medieval era is where men would come to dine with the Geisha (traditional female entertainers). The area is stilled filled with restaurants and tea houses. 

This regular pine tree was cut like a bonzi

The street was worn smooth

Traditional Geisha dress

The highlight of day for James came when we visited the oldest knife maker in Kyoto, Shigeharu.  The Shigeharu family were originally sword makers during the Kamakura period (1190-1329) and now they make hand tools and knives. Their products are made right in the back of the shop.  Every knife is hand made, polished and sharpened there. James had come to buy a Yanagiba (sashimi knife) but ended up also getting a Deba style blade which is for skinning and cutting fish.  After the purchase, the gentleman that made the knives hand engraves each one with his and James' names. 

Very quiet small shop

Time to catch some fish

Both names on each blade.  The maker used a hammer and chisel

Happy seller and customer

It is said that Kyoto was originally picked as the capital of Japan because it was protected by the surrounding mountains and it had a strong river running through the valley.  Also a mild climate and very good soil.  It was a magical place that we will never forget. 

Kyoto is at 34.93E, 135.76N. The days were in the mid 70's and sunny.

This ends our overview of Japan. It is also the last stop on our around the world adventure.  Next post will be our final thoughts on the trip and some travel recommendations from our time away.

Cheers,
P&J